First Ascents in the Khumbu Himal

November 20 check in, Peak 58585m

Geoff called-in yesterday via satellite phone and reported on their progress while Chris enjoyed a nap in the sun. The team of four (Geoff, Chris, a basecamp manager and a cook) chose to remain at their previous basecamp at 52oom to further acclimatize and recover. Chris recovered well from a nasty respiratory infection that he had been fighting since the team left Namche Bazaar, and although both he and Geoff were feeling strong, they decided to err on the side of caution and further acclimatize before continuing to an advanced base camp on the NW fork of the Lunag glacier. The team was all packed and ready to rally, before they decided to stay low and further acclimatize.

In the meantime, Geoff took advantage of suitable weather and repeated a newly established route on peak 5855m.  Geoff’s ascent was only the route’s second ascent since being established in October by a team of Swiss climbers.  Geoff reported it was a direct and sustained WI4 goulotte on the peak’s North face.

The team is again packing and planning to depart for their advanced basecamp and an attempt on the striking Northeast Face of peak Mt. Antoine LeCoultre or Jobo LeCoultre (6,478m). Geoff mentioned that he and Chris are devouring books and enjoying the renowned Sherpa hospitality in camp. Jeff and Chris are enjoying being awoken by hot tea in their sun-warmed tents, and extended evenings of tea, soup and a big dinners. They are eating plenty of Dal-Baat, but mentioned that they are particularly fond of their cook’s slutty chow mein recipe. More soon.

lunag glacier map link

Link to a google map of the Lunag Glacier and peak 6478 and it’s impressive NE face.

Mt. Antoine LeCoultre or Jobo LeCoultre. Northeast face to southeast ridge. 2009 AAJ/Stéphane Schaffter


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