First Ascents in the Khumbu Himal


Moving to ABC

Chris checked in early on November 24th. He and Geoff were headed up to an advanced camp on the upper Lunag glacier as planned. Conditions are very windy on the nearby Cho Oyo (an 8000m peak), but the team is optimistic that Jobo Lacoultre will be well below the extreme winds.

He and Chris are planning to return to basecamp no later than the evening of the 28th, so we will look forward to hearing about their adventure.

Think Sendy Thoughts!



November 20 check in, Peak 58585m

Geoff called-in yesterday via satellite phone and reported on their progress while Chris enjoyed a nap in the sun. The team of four (Geoff, Chris, a basecamp manager and a cook) chose to remain at their previous basecamp at 52oom to further acclimatize and recover. Chris recovered well from a nasty respiratory infection that he had been fighting since the team left Namche Bazaar, and although both he and Geoff were feeling strong, they decided to err on the side of caution and further acclimatize before continuing to an advanced base camp on the NW fork of the Lunag glacier. The team was all packed and ready to rally, before they decided to stay low and further acclimatize.

In the meantime, Geoff took advantage of suitable weather and repeated a newly established route on peak 5855m.  Geoff’s ascent was only the route’s second ascent since being established in October by a team of Swiss climbers.  Geoff reported it was a direct and sustained WI4 goulotte on the peak’s North face.

The team is again packing and planning to depart for their advanced basecamp and an attempt on the striking Northeast Face of peak Mt. Antoine LeCoultre or Jobo LeCoultre (6,478m). Geoff mentioned that he and Chris are devouring books and enjoying the renowned Sherpa hospitality in camp. Jeff and Chris are enjoying being awoken by hot tea in their sun-warmed tents, and extended evenings of tea, soup and a big dinners. They are eating plenty of Dal-Baat, but mentioned that they are particularly fond of their cook’s slutty chow mein recipe. More soon.

lunag glacier map link

Link to a google map of the Lunag Glacier and peak 6478 and it’s impressive NE face.

Mt. Antoine LeCoultre or Jobo LeCoultre. Northeast face to southeast ridge. 2009 AAJ/Stéphane Schaffter

November 16 Check-In

Chris and Geoff checked in on November 16th via satellite phone. The team arrived at base camp to find all of their proposed acclimatization routes out of condition. Despite solar but managed to climb a suitable alternative. Geoff and Chris climbed what they suspect to be a new route (350m, WI4/M3) on the Northeast aspect of peak 5777m.

Tomorrow, the team plans to move to an advanced camp on the Lunag Glacier and attempt a direct line on the North/Northeast face Jobo Lacoultre.


Basecamp and peak 5777m

Basecamp at 5200m and peak 5777. photo 2010 AAJ.

A first look at Nepal

Chris Wright and I conceived of this expedition a year ago by applying for the Copp Dash Award, a prestigious grant awarded to young alpine climbers who are talented and have a dream to explore the big ranges of the world.

Unfortunately life has kept me from divulging much information to anyone about this expedition until now:

We spent a few frantic days in Oregon at Chris’s house packing our seven 50 pound duffel bags for the flight to Kathmandu.  Our flight took us through Seoul South Korea for Barbeque and then onto Kathmandu.  We also made a tour of the city including the Monkey Temple before flying to Lukla.

Monkey Temple

For the last few days we have been doing some hikes above Namche and doing some bouldering on the many rocks protruding from the hillside above town.

Chris Bouldering above Namche

In a few days we’ll begin our trek to basecamp to explore our routes and get ready to climb.  The weather is good and we are psyched.

NoSiesta Guiding

Custom guided skiing and climbing excursions in the Alps

Lunag Expedition 2012

First Ascents in the Khumbu Himal

Extreme Alpine

Rock - Ice - Alpine - Mixed